In the 40 years of reform and opening up, the Sichuan cuisine revolutionary road in the eyes of “Xiao Cai, a craftsman” Xu Xiaohong

40 years ago, the lack of material, limited supply of rice, grain and oil, full of food is the greatest pursuit; 40 years later, Sichuan, Cantonese, Hunan, Shandong, Anhui, Western, Japanese, Korean … &hellip It can be said that the squandering of flowers is fascinating, and I don’t know how to choose it! From the 1980s, the dragon copying hand, Lai Tangyuan, Panyu City, to the Lion House in the 1990s, the Pakistani cloth, and then to the beginning of 2000. The fish heads, the pheasant and other single-piece hot pots, until today’s new Sichuan cuisine, net red restaurant, in the eyes of Chinese culinary masters, Sichuan cuisine artisan Xu Xiaohong, the people eat food for the day, these 40 years, the people’s plate Chinese food, mouth food More and more abundant, more and more attention to eating, more and more critical.

Old photos of Sichuan Tourism School


Dragon copying Lai Tang Yuan is very hot

Jinjiang Hotel is eight times more expensive than the outside.

In 1986, he was admitted to Sichuan Culinary College (now Sichuan Tourism College) Xu Xiaohong When I got the admission notice, I was jokes by the folks. “My father told everyone about the cooking school. Everyone didn’t understand. So I said cooking, I still don’t understand. It’s better to say that it is cooking. The result is haha.” Laughing, the first college student in the village was a cooking university.

From Renshou Rural to Chengdu, Xu Xiaohong recalled that “just after reading, Chengdu’s catering industry has been opened up, such as Longchao, Lai Tangyuan, and Panyu City. Very good. These snacks were particularly popular in those days, “the price is not expensive, the taste is not bad, I occasionally try to taste fresh. It is understood that in 2010, the Ministry of Commerce announced that there are 20 of the old Chinese brands, including 17 related diets, including Longchao, Lai Tangyuan, Zhong Dumpling, Husband and Lung, Zhang Laowu Cooling, and Beard Longan buns, Dongzikou Zhangliang powder and other snacks. Today, these stores are almost all still there, but there are not so many locals who go to eat dragons and simmering rice dumplings, but the foreigners who go to punch cards are still enthusiastic.

“Xu Xiaohong, a Sichuanese artisan

In 1987, Xu Xiaohong, a sophomore, came to Internship at Jinjiang Hotel Garden Restaurant, “At that time, Master Zhang Deshan was in the middle of the country. Many dishes were made in the country. There were hibiscus chicken, chickpea flowers, etc. Of course, there are traditional Sichuan dishes such as boiled pork and pork. He specifically mentioned that the pork was sold very well at the time. “The outside restaurant sold for one or two yuan, but Jinjiang sold for eight or nine yuan. The selection was particularly picky. You need to use strict two-knife meat. There is only six pigs. Seven pounds can be used to make the pork.

Private restaurants

Wei Minglun writes for the Pakistani cloth coat

A lion building sells a 628 yuan to a Buddha jumping wall

Xu Xiaohong recalls that In the early 1990s, Chengdu had a very hot private restaurant, the Lion House and the Pakistani Cloth. “At that time, many culinary majors graduated, and Chengdu came to a lot of foreign capital. It has sprung up like a mushroom. He lamented, “I went out to the restaurant to line up for dinner, and I thought that if I open a restaurant in the future, there are so many people waiting in line, that would be good.”

& ldquo;Traditional Chinese chef Xu Xiaohong

Why people are keen on these high-end private restaurants, Xu Xiaohong bluntly said, “The people are eating for the sky. In those years, the food culture was developed. Many cultural people also intervened in the catering industry. For example, Wei Minglun wrote a book for the Pakistani cloth.

However, Xu Xiaohong, who had just graduated at the time, did not intend to go to these high-end restaurants for employment. “The school’s teaching system is a research-oriented idea for us. Graduation is a management, usually it is a national name. Go to work. After graduating, he was awarded 3,000 yuan by the Chengdu Post Office as a talent introduction.

Recalling the lion’s ups and downs of the last century, Xu Xiaohong said, “It is said that a Buddha jumping wall will sell 628 yuan, a returning pot of meat 68 yuan, he bluntly,” at that time, the high-end Sichuan cuisine restaurant, many of them The introduction of other cuisines, such as the Lion House, has won the introduction of Cantonese cuisine, which has an impressive Buddha jump wall.

Market situation

The future is the best of Sichuan cuisine

Need more Michelin restaurant net red restaurant

In early 2000, Xu Xiaohong went to sea. A fish head hot pot was opened in Ximen. “At the beginning of the century, Chengdu has a lot of hot pot restaurants, and there are many fish head hot pots, such as Tan Yutou, three ears, business is very good, I can be considered a wind. Xu Xiaohong recalled that “the hot pot at that time was almost all buttery, but I was the first to advocate rapeseed oil as a hot pot. Of course, this practice was frequently followed by hot pot restaurants.

& ldquo; Although the hot pot restaurant is single, it is easy to be replaced, such as the popular chicken, cockroach, fish head hot pot, etc., but in the end it is somewhat silent, but because of the popularity of hot pot restaurants, Dishes, management, etc. can be standardized, easy to copy, and soon you can open a lot of stores and occupy the market, which is its advantage. Xu Xiaohong bluntly said that he prefers fine Sichuan cuisine compared to hot pot. Therefore, after shutting down the fish head hot pot restaurant in 2004, Xu Xiaohong founded a Sichuan restaurant.

In 2016, Xu Xiaohong initiated the organization of a Sichuan-based dish.The team of “Jinba” won the gold medal at the 8th China Culinary World Competition. He then chose to open a restaurant of the same name in the unfamiliar Science City at the time. “Chengdu has developed too many years. It’s almost there. At that time, there were still office buildings under construction. Everyone said that this is not the case. No one is there, but I think that in the current development situation of Chengdu, the future market will need the Michelin-grade Sichuan restaurant. And the future crowd of Science City can support the consumption of such high-end restaurants. He also said frankly, “I also thought about it at the time. If it fails, it will be a big place to develop it.”

Net Red Restaurant <; Yinba

However, the development of Chengdu gave Xu Xiaohong Unexpectedly surprised, Science City and Xinglong Lake soon became the net red card of Chengdu people, and the restaurant he opened became a net red restaurant. “The future is the world of fine Sichuan cuisine!

Xu Xiaohong, who is doing research on the key issues of the provincial government, says that “the urban development, Chengdu’s mouth is becoming more and more critical.” Not only do you need a delicious net red restaurant, but you also need more Michelin-class boutique Sichuan cuisine restaurants.

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