As Britain was waking up to political limbo following a snap election, the London Men’s calendar kicked off with political undertones. Tourne de Transmission’s creative director Graeme Gaughan, for one, looked to “the lack of transparency within policy, politics and media.”The designer worked with interchangeable panels and layers as a way to express the fickleness of the political climate, which looked strong on a series of laid-back tailoring options. Cut-off sleeves on lightweight terry jackets were held together via industrial straps that could be adjusted as the mood fits. Extralarge zippers cut like crocodile teeth through a trench-cum-cape, representing the divisions Graeme said were raging through today’s society, which informed the lineup’s deconstructed flair.The collection telegraphed fluidity and motion, walking the line between sartorial precision and athletic ease, which was perhaps best expressed in a volley of beige-and-white exits, including languid pants and asymmetric vests — sleek enough for the city, yet oozing a skater-cool vibe.
Lou Dalton has worked hard at distilling her offer, focusing on a few core pieces with a street feel and colorful knits done with the British manufacturer John Smedley.Her spring presentation was just as straightforward: Models posed in the windows of a corner store in St. James’s, while Dalton chatted to guests and passersby outside — about as low-tech as any presentation gets.“It’s about creating something that men want to wear, staples for the male wardrobe. And for spring, I’ve built on the shapes of last season,” said Dalton, who has a thriving business in Japan.
In a nod to its new Covent Garden home, Kent & Curwen staged a presentation on Floral Street a few doors away from the brand’s first, new-generation flagship which is set to open in September.The barn-like venue, with its Tudor-style wooden beams, soaring ceiling and inner courtyard, was an impressive mix of old and new, like the brand.Models paced around a gym floor that was covered with brightly colored court markings, and then gathered for a team picture at the end. David Beckham, whose company Seven Global has invested in K&C, and Daniel Kearns, the creative director, watched from above.
Below, a collection of how designers, celebrities and models celebrated International Women’s Day on Instagram. Today I'm a red-striking ninja book-fairy out to spread some wise women's words. Happy International Women's Day! @bookfairiesworldwide #IWDOurSharedShelf #IWD #ADayWithoutAWomanA post shared by Emma Watson (@emmawatson) on Mar 8, 2017 at 1:26pm PST Women's day is everyday. #CarolinaHerreraA post shared by CAROLINA HERRERA (@houseofherrera) on Mar 8, 2017 at 1:42pm PST Out of 52 permanent members of my studio 43 of them are women. Happy International Women's day, especially to my team of amazing, strong women. British Vogue March 2015. Photographed by Juergen Teller. Styled by Jane How #internationalwomensday #throwbackA post shared by ERDEM (@erdem) on Mar 8, 2017 at 12:12pm PST Today I wear red but every day I endeavor to empower women. In honor of international women's day we will be giving a portion of our sales for the whole month to the LES girls club, an organization dedicated to breaking the cycle of poverty and nurturing the next generation of female leaders #womentogether #internationalwomensday #resist #thefutureisours ❤️💪🏼💪🏽💪🏿❤️A post shared by Ulla Johnson (@ullajohnson) on Mar 8, 2017 at 10:07am PST Happy International Women's Day!! #marchesa #womenempowerment #internationalwomensdayA post shared by Georgina Chapman (@georginachapmanmarchesa) on Mar 8, 2017 at 10:58am PST Proud to celebrate #InternationalWomensDay with @Brawnybrand by honoring those who continue to break down barriers #StrengthHasNoGender. Learn more about these incredible women on Brawny.com. #AdA post shared by Serena Williams (@serenawilliams) on Mar 8, 2017 at 5:38am PST Happy international women's day 👊🏽❤A post shared by Imaan Hammam (@imaanhammam) on Mar 8, 2017 at 2:57am PST ❤S/O WOMEN! ❤#internationalwomensdayA post shared by KATY PERRY (@katyperry) on Mar 8, 2017 at 12:02pm PST Ladies first #internationalwomensdayA post shared by PROTAGONIST (@protagonistnyc) on Mar 8, 2017 at 8:21am PST My favorite person in the world ma maman❤ love your mommies/women in your life today and every dayA post shared by Lily-Rose Depp (@lilyrose_depp) on Mar 8, 2017 at 8:57am PST This #InternationalWomensDay I wanted to honor a few of the brave and brilliant women whose life stories and accomplishments have inspired me (and countless others) to reach higher, work harder, and dare to do the impossible. Today we celebrate you, the icons, artists, nerds, explorers, activists who make our world better every day. Happy #IWD2017A post shared by Karlie Kloss (@karliekloss) on Mar 8, 2017 at 4:50am PST "Each time a Woman stands up for herself, without knowing it possibly, without claiming it, she stands up for All Women" Maya Angelou Go to omaze.com/woman get your Maya Angelou-inspired t-shirt while supporting seven fearless orgs fighting for Women’s rights! 💪🏽❤️ #InternationalWomensDayA post shared by Ciara (@ciara) on Mar 8, 2017 at 11:39am PST We are strong, we are powerful, we are women #InternationalWomensDay #Strength #strongertogetherA post shared by Naomi Campbell (@iamnaomicampbell) on Mar 8, 2017 at 11:40am PST Happy International Women's day to all my Strong,fearless,bold,powerful,independent women I know and around the World! ❤️ 👩🏿🎓👩🏻⚕️👷🏽♀️👮🏼♀️🕵🏾♀️👩🏿⚕️👩🏻🎤👩🏽🍳👩🏿💻👩🏾🔬👩🏼🎨👩🏼🚒👩🏾✈️👩🏼🚀🤰🏽💃🏻👩🏻🔧👩🏾🏭🏋🏿♀️⛹🏽♀️👩🏼🌾🙋🏼🙋🏻🙋🏽🙋🏾🙋🏿 #repost @10magazineA post shared by Jourdan Dunn (@jourdandunn) on Mar 8, 2017 at 6:24am PST I will raise my children to be beautiful human beings and powerful men who understand how magnificent women are. I believe that all women, all over the world, are beautiful, whole and powerful. They should be honored like goddesses, not just on International Women’s Day, but every day. We must continue to lift each other up, believe in ourselves and not hold back from this truth. #InternationalWomensDayA post shared by Alicia Keys (@aliciakeys) on Mar 8, 2017 at 9:41am PST @PlannedParenthood helps all different kinds of people. For #InternationalWomensDay #DannyDeVito and I #StandWithPP! Thanks @CarenSpruch x #IWD2017A post shared by Mark Ruffalo (@markruffalo) on Mar 8, 2017 at 8:06am PST I honor my mother, Marian Badi, as my SheHero…. Who is your SheHero? #SheHero #internationalwomensdayA post shared by IMAN (@the_real_iman) on Mar 8, 2017 at 5:34am PST Grateful to be surrounded by the strongest women #happyinternationalwomensday #girlpower 💙A post shared by Elle Fanning (@ellefanning) on Mar 8, 2017 at 10:50am PST Happy women's day ❤✊️A post shared by Hanne Gaby Odiele (@hannegabysees) on Mar 8, 2017 at 9:05am PST Happy #internationalwomensday people!! Proud to be a #woman ❤👊👊👊❤❤#iwd #strongwomen #turnpainintopower #girlpower💪A post shared by Naomi Watts (@naomiwatts) on Mar 8, 2017 at 6:55am PSTYou're missing something!
Designer Carin Rodebjer moved back to Sweden and wanted to break out of that country’s aesthetic tone of chic minimalism. “The world has been a little overwhelming this last year, and we decided to go back to what we loved about fashion, and that for me is about having fun and playing with identity,” she said. Cue Cher, whom Rodebjer admires for her daring yet playful persona.She offered up a lot of layers to transition from party to street, strict to mildly wild. Sequined and silver metallic dresses were the most evident homage to Cher’s flamboyant style. One came with a built-in shawl while another unbuttoned at the collar for a bohemian vibe. Colorful nightlife prints on blouses added some energy and urban sparkle, while a slouchy velvet dress with high turtleneck and little black dress with cutout shoulders were equally appropriate for holiday dressing. She balanced traditional men’s wear suiting with athletic references to liven up soft tailoring. Burgundy seamless leggings, for example, were paired under boxy blazers for a play on proportions and appropriate cocktail attire. She succeeded best in mixing the adventurous and modest with a grungy sheer black skirt that could be paired with an elegant blouse, and a red-and-black striped sequined dress worn over a simple sweatshirt.See More From the 2018 Resort Collections:
It was easy to get on board with Victor Glemaud’s goals for his delightful resort lineup of unisex knitwear. He wanted to make it “joyful and charming,” he said. “In this climate we’re in, I want it to be fun.” Mission accomplished with a trompel’oeil white sweater/black slip tunic dress, a multicolored striped cashmere cardigan and a thick boxy knit top with a dash of Agnes Martin-inspired pastel pink graphics. To show some skin, there were short flirty skirts, crop tops and pieces with decorative slashes. Glemaud also introduced a range of sweatshirts and T-shirts in a Joan Miró-inspired splatter print. “I want it to be seasonless and price accessible,” he said. Because that’s more fun for everyone.See More From the 2018 Resort Collections:Mara Hoffman Resort 2018:“The goal was small but impactful,” explained Mara Hoffman of her newest, one delivery, refined resort 2018 collection.
“Some months ago a customer came out of the dressing room with one of our pre-fall looks saying, ‘Oh my god, every time I put on your clothes I just smile — you just make great clothes,’” said Adam Lippes at his resort preview. Possibly nothing he hadn’t heard before, but Lippes explained that it simply reaffirmed his purpose. “That’s what I am trying to do; I just want to make great, luxurious clothes — fabric, fit and construction and pieces you go to again and again. We are not doing costumes at all, just things you want to live in. Simple.”For resort, Lippes’ offerings are exactly that – desirable and wearable. Take his Lurex knit dress, which is striped vertically, pleated and “does not wrinkle.” Or his cotton striped boned bodice midlength dress, which he also offered in black lace. Or his acid denim jacket, thoughtfully lined in silk. Who would not want these pieces?Elsewhere, Lippes showed some effortless long dresses. “Customers want easy evening,” he said. A fuchsia chiffon long-sleevepleated style with delicate red piping and a crepe jumpsuit with herringbone beading stood out.
The fashion sketches of late designer Walter Albini served as a starting point for Marco de Vincenzo’s resort collection.Details from those graphic images returned in many pieces of the collection. But instead of following the inspiration too literally, de Vincenzo introduced its signature optical illusions and played with trompe-l’oeil motifs.For example, the silk scarves appearing at the neck of Albini’s sketched women were rendered as embroideries embellishing the necklines of the collection’s tops and dresses. Other designs, including blazers crafted from masculine suiting fabrics, were decorated with an embroidered pocket square; embroidered belts appeared on wide-leg pants and a cotton poplin shirt had an applied patch pocket, this time enriched with a real silk scarf.
Alex Mullins looked at spring through a peculiar lens for this pleasantly distorted collection where jacket sleeves slouched, button flies twisted and waistbands jutted in odd directions.“I wanted it melting, summery and easy,” said Mullins, adding that it was no simple task to create a jacket with one dropped sleeve and another normal one. “It was a lengthy process to get it not to look wrong.”Looks included a pair of trousers with a twisted fly and a waistband that flew out like a wing on one side, and jackets and knits with one sleeve that sagged like a broken arm. Mullins’ prints were distorted, too: Glamorous ladies’ faces were stretched over caftans or headscarves.
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ allure has proven to be timeless. In the decades since the bulkof theformer first lady’s estate was auctioned in 1996 following her death two years prior, personal effects from Onassis’ glamorouslife have become increasingly rare to the market.Next month, a 1962 Cartierwristwatch — dubbed “The Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Cartier Tank” — will be the highlight of Christie’s Rare Watches and American Icons New York sale on June 21. The timepiece — a design thatwas first created 100 years ago by Louis Cartier — was a gift to the then Mrs. Kennedy in 1963 by her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw “Stas” Radziwill.Crafted from 18-karat gold, the square-shaped time-keeperfeatures a sapphire-set cabochon crown and carries a historically significant engraving, which reads “Stas to Jackie 23 Feb. 63 2:05 am to 9:35 pm.”The noted times refer to the beginning and end of a50-mile hike in the Palm Beach, Fla., area, which reflecteda short-lived fad of the Kennedy era. President John F. Kennedy, noticing many Americans at the time were leaving physical fitness by the wayside, encouraged citizens to embrace a healthier lifestyle and challenged his White House staff to lead by example. Setting out in the middle of the night, many — including Attorney General Robert Kennedy and Radziwill — spent 17 hours walking stretches of Florida roadways to promote an active lifestyle.Despite having not participated in the hike herself, Onassis wore the inscribed watch for many years and returned the generosityto Radziwill by creatingan original painting that will be offered as part of the lot. The watercolor — painted by the then 33-year-old first lady— depicts Lee Radziwill’s late husband on the trek alongside Kennedy adviser Chuck Spalding with apersonal dedication: “February 23, 1963 2:05 am to 9:35 pm/Jackie to Stas with love and admiration.”“These two objects capture the spirit of another era, a time where friendship and the ‘can-do’ optimism of the generation seemed to make anything possible,” explained international head of Christie’s watches John Reardon. “In this spirit, the consignor has offered to donate a portion of the proceeds to the National Endowment for the Arts.”The consignor, who wishesto remain anonymous, can expect this rare timepiece and one-of-a-kind artwork to fetch an estimated $60,000 to $120,000 when it hits the auction block next month.You're missing something!